Author: GitFit Pensacola

If you live in Milton, Navarre or the towns around them and your treadmill has quit, you don’t need to haul it anywhere. Treadmills are heavy and awkward to move, so I bring my tools to your home and work on the machine where it sits. GitFit has been locally operated since 2013.

Towns I serve

Along with Milton and Navarre, I serve homes in Pace, Holt, Crestview, Niceville, Valparaiso, Shalimar, Fort Walton Beach, Mary Esther, Destin, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Freeport, Gulf Breeze, Beulah, Cantonment and Pensacola. When you book online, you see your flat price before you confirm.

Common problems I fix

• A treadmill that won’t turn on
• A belt that’s slipping or drifting to one side
• An incline that won’t go up or down
• Error codes on the console
• Thumping, grinding or squeaking noises
• A motor that hesitates or surges, or buttons and safety keys that don’t respond

Brands I work on

I work on folding and non-folding home treadmills from NordicTrack, ProForm, Sole and Bowflex. Not sure if I work on yours? Text me the model number and I’ll let you know.

How a visit works

• Book online. Pick your machine and a time. You’ll see the flat service-call price before you confirm. It’s not an hourly rate, and you can also check the price sheet.
• I come to your home. I diagnose the machine where it sits, whether it’s in a spare room or the garage.
• Most repairs are done on the first visit. If a part has to be ordered, I come back to install it, and that trip costs less than the first.

How to get ready

It helps to have your model number handy, usually on a sticker near the front of the frame or by the power switch. A short note or video of what the machine is doing helps too. Clear a little room around the treadmill so I can get to the motor cover and rollers, and leave it where it is. There’s no need to move it.

If you haven’t tried the basics yet, it’s worth doing a couple of quick checks first, because it may save you a service call. If you’re on the fence, here’s how I’d decide whether to repair or replace a treadmill.

More than treadmills

I also work on ellipticals, exercise bikes and home gyms.

Get it scheduled

You can book a service call online and see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your town and model number. See treadmill repair for more about what I work on.

The cables on a Bowflex home gym do a lot of work, and they wear gradually enough that it’s easy to miss. They’re also under load right where your hands and face are, so a quick check is worth the few minutes it takes. A cable that lets go in the middle of a rep can hurt you.

How to inspect your cables

Do this with the machine at rest and no resistance on the cable. Pull each cable out slowly and look along the whole length, including the parts that normally sit inside the machine and around the pulleys. Run a dry rag along it if you can’t see well, since it will snag on broken strands. Look for:

• Frayed or broken strands
• Cracks, splits or bubbles in the outer coating
• Flat spots or kinks
• Rust or discoloration
• Wear near the ends and at the fittings

Check everything the cable touches

• Pulleys. They should spin freely and smoothly, without wobble. A stuck, cracked or rough pulley will quickly wear a cable out.
• Clips and hooks. Look for bent carabiners or clips that don’t snap closed. Replace any that are damaged.
• Routing. Make sure the cable is sitting in each pulley groove and hasn’t jumped out. A cable that’s off its track can get chewed up.
• Frame bolts. Tighten anything that’s worked loose. Your manual will show the proper hardware.

Keeping cables in good shape

• Wipe down the cables and rails with a dry or slightly damp cloth, following your manual. Don’t spray oil or household lubricants on them unless your manual says to.
• Let the weight or resistance return with control, and don’t let the handles snap back.
• Stay within the range the machine is designed for, and pull along the normal path. Pulling at sharp angles can wear the cable and pulleys.
• Keep the machine in as dry a place as you can. Moisture is hard on cables, and Florida garages are tough on all kinds of equipment.

When to replace a cable

Stop using the machine and replace the cable if you find frayed strands, a crack that goes through the coating, a kink that won’t straighten, or damaged ends. Don’t tape over the damage and keep using it.

Use the cable that’s made for your exact model. Lengths, fittings and routing vary, so a cable that looks close may not fit or be safe. Note how the old one is routed before you take it out, and take a photo or two. It’s easy to lose track of the path around the pulleys, and that’s where many people get stuck.

When to call

If you’d rather not deal with it, or a cable keeps wearing out quickly, I can come to your house and look at the whole system. See home gym repair for what I work on, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number.

When a treadmill breaks, the first question is often whether it’s worth fixing. There’s no single right answer, and sometimes a repair really isn’t the best use of your money. Here’s how I’d think it through.

Questions to ask first

• What was it like before it broke? If you liked the machine and it ran well until now, that counts for a lot.
• How good is the frame? A solid frame with no serious rust is the main thing you’d be keeping. Most other parts can be replaced.
• Are parts still available? This is the question that decides many older machines. A common wear part is usually easy to find, but a discontinued console or board may not be.
• Is this the first problem or the latest of many? One failure on a good machine is different from a third repair this year.
• What would you really replace it with? Compare the repair to a new machine of similar quality, not to the cheapest one on sale.

When repair usually makes sense

• The problem is a common wear item, such as a walking belt, deck, drive belt or roller.
• The issue is a loose connection, a sensor or an adjustment.
• It’s a better-built machine that you’d have a hard time matching for the same money.
• The machine is heavy, it’s already set up where you want it, and getting a new one in means moving the old one out.

When replacing may be the better call

• The frame is badly rusted, cracked or bent.
• The part it needs is no longer available, or it costs close to what the machine is worth.
• It’s a light-duty machine that no longer fits how you use it, such as a walking treadmill you now run on.
• The machine has had several major failures close together.

Don’t guess at the cost

The hard part is that you often can’t tell how big the problem is until someone looks at it. A treadmill that seems dead may have a simple power issue, and a loud one may need only a roller. On the other hand, a problem that seems small can be a sign of something larger.

Start with the free checks in my repair tips. If those don’t solve it, a diagnosis will give you the facts you need to decide. My service calls are a flat price, not an hourly rate, and you can see what they cost on the price sheet. Most repairs are done on that first visit. If a part has to be ordered, I come back to install it, and that trip costs less than the first.

Part prices vary by model, so ask me about yours.

When to call

Text me your model number and what it’s doing at 850-733-8492, and I can tell you what I know about it. You can also read about treadmill repair or book a service call online.

An error code on the console can look serious, but it’s only the machine telling you where it thinks the problem is. It doesn’t always mean a part has failed. Codes also differ between brands and even between models, so a code that means one thing on a NordicTrack may mean something else on a Sole. Search by your exact model number, not just the code.

First, write it down

Before you reset anything, write down or take a photo of the exact code, along with what the machine was doing when it appeared. Did it happen at startup, as soon as the belt started to move, or after a while at speed? Did it start after you moved the treadmill or after a storm? Those details matter as much as the code.

Then try these steps

• Do a full power reset. Turn it off, unplug it from the wall, and wait a minute or two. Plug it back in and try again. A code that doesn’t come back may have been a one-time glitch.
• Check the safety key. Take it out and seat it again. On some machines, a key that’s not fully seated can look like a bigger problem.
• Plug directly into a wall outlet. Skip the extension cord. Low voltage or a weak connection can cause odd behavior.
• Look up the code in your manual. Many owner’s manuals include a troubleshooting section, and you can usually find a copy online using the model number.
• Run an incline calibration, if it’s incline related. See what to check when your treadmill incline isn’t working.

What codes usually point to

Exact meanings vary, but most codes fall into a few general groups:

• Speed or sensor problems. The machine isn’t getting the speed reading it expects. It can be a loose or dirty speed sensor, a wiring problem, a slipping belt or a motor issue.
• Motor or overload problems. The motor is drawing too much power or isn’t responding. A dry or worn belt and deck can cause this, as can a motor or control board failure.
• Incline problems. The incline isn’t moving or isn’t reporting its position correctly.
• Communication problems. The console and the control board aren’t talking, often because of a loose or damaged cable, or a failed board.

Don’t start by ordering a board

It’s tempting to look up a code and order the part it seems to point at. But a code tells you which system is complaining, not necessarily which part is bad. A dragging belt can look like a motor problem, and a pinched wire can look like a dead board. Testing first can save you from buying an expensive part you didn’t need.

Also, if your machine is still under warranty, check the terms before you open it up.

When to call

If the code keeps coming back, I can come to your house and test it where it sits. See treadmill repair for what I work on, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number and the code.

A new noise is often the first warning that something on a treadmill is wearing out. The type of sound and when it happens will tell you a lot, so take a minute to listen before you take anything apart.

Safety first: unplug the machine before you look under the motor cover or touch the belt or rollers. Keep hands and loose clothes away from the machine while it’s moving.

Narrow it down

Run the belt at a slow speed with nobody on it. Then ask these questions:

• Does it make the noise with nobody on the belt, or only when you’re walking on it?
• Does it speed up as the belt speeds up?
• Does it come from the front, near the motor, or from the back roller?
• Did it start suddenly, or get louder over time?

If it’s a thump

• In rhythm with the belt. This often means a belt seam, a worn spot or a belt that has started to separate. Mark the belt with chalk and watch whether the thump comes around at the same point.
• Only when you step. This can be a loose deck, worn cushions or a machine that isn’t sitting level. Check that all the feet touch the floor.
• Right after moving the machine. Look for a loose bolt or something caught under the frame.

If it’s a grind or a rumble

• From the back or front of the deck. This often means a worn roller bearing. It usually gets louder with speed and may be there with no one on the belt.
• From under the motor cover. This can mean worn motor bearings or a problem in the drive system. Stop using it until you know what it is.
• Metal on metal. Stop right away. Something may be rubbing that shouldn’t be, and continuing can damage more parts.

If it’s a squeak or squeal

A squeak can come from a loose frame bolt, a dry part or a belt rubbing against the side rail. If the belt is rubbing, see how to center a drifting belt. A high squeal from the front can mean a drive belt that’s loose or worn.

When to stop using it

Stop if you smell burning, if the noise is sudden and loud, if the belt stutters under your feet, or if the machine starts tripping a breaker. A worn part that keeps running can take a motor or control board along with it, and that turns a small repair into a larger one.

What’s helpful to tell me

If you can, record a short video of the sound on your phone, with the belt running, and send it with your model number. It helps me figure out what to bring.

When to call

If you can’t place the noise, I can come to your house and find it. See treadmill repair for what I work on, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number.

Plenty of people around Northwest Florida keep a treadmill in the garage, because that’s where there’s room. It can work fine, but a garage here is a rough place for a machine with a motor and circuit boards. Heat, humidity, salt air and summer storms all take a toll. A few habits go a long way.

What the climate does to a treadmill

• Humidity causes rust and corrosion. You’ll see it first on bolts, the frame and the battery contacts on some machines. Moisture can also get into connectors and electronics, where you can’t see it.
• Heat stresses the electronics. Control boards and motors make their own heat. A closed garage in July gives them little chance to cool down.
• Salt air speeds it all up. If you’re close to the beach or the sound, expect corrosion to show up sooner.
• Storms bring power problems. Lightning and surges are a real risk for sensitive boards, and flooding is a concern in low-lying garages.

Where and how to set it up

• Keep it off bare concrete if you can. A proper treadmill mat helps keep it away from moisture and dust. It also protects the floor.
• Choose a dry, level spot. Keep it away from the door, where rain blows in, and away from a water heater or washer that could leak.
• Use the right outlet. Plug directly into the wall if your manual says to, and avoid extension cords. Garage outlets are usually GFCI, and a treadmill can sometimes trip them, so check your manual if yours keeps shutting off.
• Get air moving. A fan helps you and the machine. If the garage stays damp, a dehumidifier can make a big difference.
• Run it at a cooler time of day. Early mornings or evenings are easier on you and on the electronics during summer.

Habits that protect it

• Unplug it when you’re not using it, especially during thunderstorms.
• Wipe sweat off the frame, rails and console after every workout. Sweat is salty and speeds up rust.
• Sweep or vacuum around and under the machine, since dust and lint get pulled into the motor area.
• Check the belt regularly. Keep up with lubrication as your manual recommends.
• Use a breathable cover if you use one at all. A plastic tarp can trap moisture against the machine.
• Check the bolts and frame every so often. If you see surface rust, deal with it early.

Before a hurricane

Unplug the treadmill when a storm is on the way. If your garage could take on water, raise the machine if you can do it safely. Don’t risk your back or your safety over a treadmill. If it got wet, don’t power it up until it’s been checked, since water and control boards are a bad mix.

When to call

If your garage treadmill has started acting up, or you’d like it looked over, I can come to your house and check it. See maintenance and treadmill repair, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number.

A blank elliptical console can make a machine feel completely dead, but the cause is often small. Before anything else, work out how your elliptical gets its power, because that decides what you check first.

Ellipticals generally power their consoles one of three ways: batteries, a wall adapter, or a small generator that runs while you pedal. Your manual will tell you which yours uses, and some machines use more than one.

Start here

• Pedal for a minute. Many consoles are asleep until they detect motion. On self-powered machines, the console won’t wake up until you’ve been moving for a little while. Pedal at a steady pace before you assume it’s broken.
• Replace the batteries. Use a fresh set of the type listed in your manual, not ones from the junk drawer. Check that each one faces the right way.
• Look at the battery contacts. White or green crust is corrosion, and it’s common in humid homes and garages. If you see any, take the batteries out and clean the contacts gently. A badly corroded holder may need replacing.
• Check the outlet and adapter. Test the outlet with a lamp or a phone charger, and press the reset button if it’s a GFCI outlet. Make sure the adapter is pushed fully into the machine and the cord isn’t damaged.
• Do a power reset. Unplug the machine or remove the batteries for a minute or so, then reconnect it.

Check the console cable

The console connects to the rest of the machine through a cable that runs up inside the upright post. That connection can come loose, especially if the machine has been moved or recently assembled, and the cable can get pinched.

If you’re comfortable doing it, unplug the machine, loosen the console following the manual, and check that the connector is seated firmly. Look for crushed or broken wires. Support the console while it’s loose so it doesn’t hang from the cable.

If it’s still blank

If you have good power and a firm cable connection, the likely causes are the console itself, the wiring lower in the machine, the power adapter, or a generator or control board on models that have them. Testing them takes some time and a meter, and replacement parts are specific to the model, so don’t order a new console on a guess.

If the console lights up but the numbers don’t change, that’s a different issue. It’s often a speed sensor or its wiring, not a power problem. Text me what it’s doing and I can tell you more about what to look for. If your machine is also making noise, here’s how to stop an elliptical from squeaking.

When to call

If the console still won’t turn on, I can come to your house and track it down. See elliptical repair for what I work on, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number.

When the incline stops moving, the treadmill usually still runs fine on flat, so it’s easy to live with for a while. Still, it’s worth checking, because a few causes are simple and a stuck lift can sometimes strain other parts.

Safety first: unplug the machine before you look underneath it, and never reach under a treadmill while the incline is moving. If you need to tilt or fold the machine to see the lift, get help. They’re heavy.

Start with the easy checks

• Do a power reset. Unplug the treadmill for a minute or so, then plug it in and try again. This clears some console glitches.
• Look for something in the way. Check under the machine and around the lift for anything blocking it, like a mat that bunched up, a dumbbell or a toy.
• Check the safety key. Many consoles won’t respond correctly if the key isn’t fully seated.
• Try both directions and both controls. If the machine has quick-set buttons and up and down buttons, try each one. If one works and another doesn’t, the console may be the problem and not the lift.

Run an incline calibration

Many treadmills, including a lot of NordicTrack and ProForm models, have a calibration routine in the console’s maintenance or settings menu. The machine runs the incline through its full range so that it knows where its top and bottom are. If the display and the actual angle don’t match, or the incline stops partway, this is worth trying.

The steps differ by model, so use your manual. Stay clear of the machine while it runs, because the deck moves on its own.

What it means if those don’t help

• It’s silent when you press the button. This can be a wiring, console or control board problem, or a failed incline motor.
• You hear the motor, but the deck doesn’t move. This often points to the lift itself, such as the drive gear or the screw on the motor.
• It goes one way but not the other. A sensor, control board or incline motor may be at fault, and it takes testing to tell them apart.
• It shows an error code. Write the code down before you reset anything. My guide to treadmill error codes covers what to do next.

What not to do

Don’t force the deck up or down by hand, and don’t keep pressing the button over and over while the motor strains. Don’t remove the motor cover and test wiring with the machine plugged in, either. The control boards on treadmills can hold a charge and can be expensive to replace.

When to call

If the incline still won’t move, I can come to your house and test it where it sits. See treadmill repair for what I work on, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number.

The honest answer is that it depends on your treadmill, so your owner’s manual comes first. Manufacturers set the schedule, and it varies. Some machines call for lubricant after a set number of hours or miles, some on a calendar schedule, and some use belts that are sold as needing little or none.

If you’ve lost the manual, you can usually find a copy online by searching for your model number. The number is typically on a sticker near the front of the frame or by the power switch.

Signs the belt may need lubricant

• The belt feels like it hesitates or drags when you step on it.
• The motor sounds like it’s working harder than it used to.
• You hear more squeaking or rubbing from under the belt.
• The machine trips a breaker or shuts off under load, though that can have other causes too.

You can also check by hand. With the treadmill unplugged, lift the edge of the belt and touch the top of the deck, as far toward the middle as you can reach. A deck with lubricant left on it usually feels a little slick. A completely dry deck may be due, if your manual calls for lube.

How to apply it

• Use only what the manual calls for. Most home treadmills use a silicone lubricant, but check yours. Don’t use WD-40, motor oil or household sprays, which can damage the belt and deck.
• Unplug the machine and loosen the belt if needed. Some models have enough slack to lift the belt without touching the bolts. If you loosen them, count your turns so you can put them back.
• Apply it under the belt, on the deck. Follow the amount and pattern in the manual, and keep it in the walking area.
• Spread it out. Plug the machine back in, then walk slowly for a few minutes to work it across the deck.

Too much is a problem too

More lubricant isn’t better. Extra lube can make the belt slip, attract dust and lint, and migrate to the rollers. If your belt started slipping right after you applied lube, this may be why. Follow the amount in the manual and wipe up anything that gets on the rollers or the floor.

Lube won’t fix everything

If the belt is frayed, worn smooth, or the deck has a rough or worn spot in the walking area, lubricant is only hiding the problem for a short time. That extra drag makes the motor and electronics work harder, so it’s worth getting looked at. If you’d rather have someone else keep up with it, see fitness equipment maintenance.

When to call

If you’ve lubricated the belt and it still drags, I can come to your house and find out why. See treadmill repair for what I work on, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number.

A treadmill belt should stay in the middle of the deck while you walk. If it creeps toward one side and starts rubbing the side rail, it can fray the edge of the belt and wear the deck faster. The fix is often a small adjustment you can make yourself in a few minutes.

Safety first: unplug the machine before you turn any bolts, and keep hands, loose clothes and pets away from the belt whenever it’s moving. Your owner’s manual has the exact steps for your model, so follow it if it differs from what’s here.

Why belts drift

• Uneven tension. This is the most common cause. A belt tends to wander toward its looser side.
• An unlevel machine. Sagging garage slabs, thick carpet and folded rubber mats can all twist the frame slightly.
• Uneven foot strike. If you land harder on one foot, the belt can move to that side over time. A little movement during a workout that corrects itself is normal.
• Wear. A stretched belt, worn roller or damaged deck can make the belt impossible to keep centered.

How to center the belt

• Level the machine first. Check that all the feet sit flat and that the frame doesn’t rock.
• Find the adjustment bolts. On most treadmills there are two at the very back, one on each side of the rear roller. Many take an Allen wrench, and some machines ship with the right one.
• Run the belt with nobody on it. Use a slow walking speed, about 2 to 3 mph, and watch which way it moves.
• Stop and unplug, then make a small turn. If the belt drifted left, turn the left bolt clockwise a quarter turn. If it drifted right, turn the right bolt clockwise a quarter turn.
• Test it again. Let the belt run for a minute or two before you judge the result, because it takes a moment to settle. Repeat with small turns until it stays centered.

What not to do

Don’t crank one bolt several full turns to get it over with. Too much tension wears the rollers, bearings and motor, and it can create a new problem while you’re fixing the old one. If you’ve made several turns and the belt still won’t stay put, stop adjusting.

Don’t keep running a belt that’s already rubbing the rail. Check the edge for fraying first. A badly frayed belt needs to be replaced, and centering it won’t change that.

When it’s more than an adjustment

Drifting that returns within days, a belt that won’t respond to the bolts, or a roller that looks out of line usually points to wear. You may also notice the belt slipping under your feet or a new noise from the back of the machine.

When to call

If it won’t stay centered, I can come to your house and sort it out. See treadmill repair for what I work on, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number.

When you change the resistance on an exercise bike and nothing happens, the problem is usually in one of three places: the control you’re using, the connection between that control and the brake, or the brake itself.

Safety first: unplug the machine before you touch anything under the motor cover or near the belt. If you’re not comfortable with a step, stop there.

Bikes with a resistance knob

On many bikes, the knob pulls a cable that moves a brake pad or magnet near the flywheel. A stretched, loose or broken cable can leave resistance stuck. If you can see the cable, check that it’s connected at both ends and moves when you turn the knob.

Bikes with electronic resistance

• Turn the bike off, unplug it for a minute and start it again.
• Check that the power cord is fully seated at the bike and at the wall.
• If the bike runs from a screen or app, make sure a workout setting isn’t controlling resistance automatically.

If the console changes the number but you don’t feel a difference, the motor, wiring or sensor that moves the brake may need attention.

Resistance stuck too hard

If the pedals are hard to turn even on the lowest setting, stop riding it. A brake that’s rubbing or a bearing that’s failing can get worse quickly.

When to call

If these checks don’t fix it, I can come to your house and take care of it. See exercise bike repair for what I work on, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number.

An elliptical has a lot of moving joints, and every one of them can start to squeak or click. The good news is that many squeaks start with something simple.

Safety first: unplug the machine before you touch anything under the motor cover or near the belt. If you’re not comfortable with a step, stop there.

Start with the hardware

Machines loosen up with use. Check the bolts on the pedal arms, handlebars and frame, and snug up anything loose. Don’t overtighten. Just firm.

Clean the rails and wheels

On ellipticals with rollers on a track, dust and debris on the rail or wheels can cause noise. Wipe the rail and wheels with a dry cloth. Check your manual before adding any lubricant, since some tracks should stay dry.

Find where it’s coming from

Have someone else use the machine slowly while you listen near each pivot: pedals, arms, the front or rear drive and the crank. A noise that comes once per stride usually points to a pivot or bearing.

Signs it’s more than a squeak

• A clunk or knock you can feel through the pedals
• A stride that feels rough or catches
• Play or wobble in a pedal arm
• Noise from inside the drive area or covers

Those usually mean worn bushings or bearings, and they get worse with use.

When to call

If these checks don’t fix it, I can come to your house and take care of it. See elliptical repair for what I work on, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number.

A slipping belt feels like a stutter or a brief loss of grip when your foot lands, and it usually gets worse at higher speeds or on an incline. Don’t ignore it. It can throw you off balance.

Safety first: unplug the machine before you touch anything under the motor cover or near the belt. If you’re not comfortable with a step, stop there.

Common causes

• Walking belt too loose. Belts stretch over time. Most treadmills have adjustment bolts at the back roller for tension and tracking. Your owner’s manual gives the exact steps for your model. Small, even turns on both sides are the rule.
• Worn belt or deck. If the belt is worn smooth, frayed, or the deck underneath is worn, adjusting tension won’t fix it for long.
• Drive belt slipping. Many treadmills have a smaller belt between the motor and the front roller. If it’s worn or loose, the motor spins but the walking belt doesn’t keep up.
• Lubrication. A belt that hasn’t been lubricated as the manufacturer recommends puts extra load on the motor and can cause other problems. Use only the lubricant your manual calls for.

What not to do

Don’t overtighten the belt to stop the slip. Too much tension wears the rollers, bearings and motor faster.

When to call

If these checks don’t fix it, I can come to your house and take care of it. See treadmill repair for what I work on, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number.

A treadmill that won’t power on is one of the most common calls I get. Sometimes it’s a real electrical problem, but often it’s something you can check in a few minutes.

1. The safety key

Most treadmills won’t start, and some won’t even light up, unless the safety key is fully seated. Pull it out and push it back in firmly. If it’s missing, the machine won’t run.

2. The outlet

Plug a lamp or phone charger into the same outlet to make sure it has power. If the outlet is on a GFCI (the kind with Test and Reset buttons), press Reset. Treadmills draw a lot of current, so it’s best to plug straight into the wall, not a power strip or extension cord.

3. The household breaker

Check your breaker panel for a tripped breaker. If it keeps tripping every time the treadmill starts, stop resetting it and have the machine looked at.

4. The power switch and reset button on the treadmill

Many treadmills have an on/off switch near the power cord, and some have a small circuit breaker or reset button there too. Make sure the switch is on and press the reset if your model has one. Your owner’s manual will show where they are.

5. The power cord

Look over the cord for cuts, crushed spots or a loose plug. A damaged cord should be replaced before you use the machine again.

When to call

If these checks don’t fix it, I can come to your house and take care of it. See treadmill repair for what I work on, book a service call online to see your flat price, or text me at 850-733-8492 with your model number.